celticdragonfly: (Firefly -River - I'll knit)
I have just done the shoulder join and bind-off on the Cherie Amour sweater.

And it FITS. There are no sleeves yet, and the ends aren't finished, and there's still a lifeline in. And I have no v-neck shirt to put under it yet. But I tried it on anyway. It FITS. The short-rows WORKED.

No, I don't look ANYTHING like the woman in the pattern pictures in it... and nothing will make me look like her. But I do think it's going to look nice on me. It is a very boobalicious sweater.
celticdragonfly: (Knitting for dummies - Jayne)
Whew. 5 of the 7 turning points are done.

When I was planning out doing these short rows, I did not realize that it was going to require me to be doing half the front with the lace pattern BACKWARDS on the purl side. With P2togTBL instead of SSK.

GAH! I can do this, but I'm finding it a PITA and it does require a bit of concentration. I can see why more typical knitters think they can't handle short rows. This would be a reasonably complex thing if I was doing it on a plain front, let alone this worked-in-the-round lace bulky sweater.

I can tell that the short rows are having the expected kind of effect. I have no idea if it will actually fit me well or not. We'll have to see.
celticdragonfly: (Default)
So I'm finally getting back to working on the Cherie Amour sweater. Having read various comments on Ravelry from those that have made them, it sounds like it needs some extra length in front for those of us with... huge tracts of land. I'm going to be doing a short-row bust dart in front, as written up in Big Girl Knits.

Trouble is, the well-written up theory assumes you are dealing with a sweater that has a full-front in one piece, and it assumes that you are knitting the sweater in pieces - that you are doing this on a flat piece for the front that will later get sewn together with other pieces. I am adapting this to a sweater that is knit in the round to the top of the waist, and then splits into a deep V neck and is knit back and forth (but in one piece) from there. So JUST a bit different.

I don't want to be bothered documenting it, but I know I should. So here it is.

Dart Depth
BDD 3.5"
Bust Dart Rows BDR 14 rows
Front Sweater Width FSW 27"
Bust Dart Width BDW 6"
Bust Dart Stitches BDS 15
Turning Points TP 7
Short Row Increments SRI 2

I've gone through and done the 30 rows of K2P2 on the smaller needles to define the waist, and then done the one row that puts it back onto the larger needles and does the one K2Tog to get it down to 151 stitches, and I've put a lifeline in.

Normally, next would be one row around of lace pattern 2, and then stopping knitting in the round and going back and forth around, doing the decreases to form the V of the neck.

What I'm going to do now is to do the short-rows along the front, letting the back half sit, doing it in lace pattern 2. When I'm done, I will do the one round all the way around of lace pattern 2, and then start back and forth and doing the V-decreases.

I hope this works. I *think* I get the theory. What's throwing me off is that for socks, when you do short-rows, you short-row down, and then short-row back UP again - it sounds like for this, you just short-row down, and then do a straight row across all of it, picking up the wraps as you go.

Baby hat?

Jan. 16th, 2008 08:56 pm
celticdragonfly: (Firefly -River - I'll knit)
I made a hat for Alanna, with a pattern I designed for her myself. I made it in worsted weight yarn, and it was well sized for her admittedly rather large head. I'd been theorizing that I could do a version of the hat with the same pattern in DK weight yarn and have it come out a good size for a typical baby, but hadn't gotten to check this.

Our friends just had a baby - somewhat preemie, but a good sized baby, just over 7 lbs. So I realized HEY, and started knitting one for her in DK.

It's done. It's... a hat. Sitting here with Alanna the Mega Baby, the 7-month old who's the size of an 18 month old - I have no idea if I've managed to successfully make a hat for a normal newborn, or if I've made a hat for a weeeee preemie.

Or heck, a largish doll...
celticdragonfly: (Knitting for dummies - Jayne)
Duplicate stitch, IMO, SUCKS.

And I can never figure out why sometimes it comes out looking okay and other times it doesn't cover worth a darn.

Just saying.
celticdragonfly: (Wimsey - string - perfectly simple if yo)
Eek. I just had a knitting near-disaster.

I have finally cast on for the Cherie Amour sweater. I'm using the Knitpicks Harmony options needles - I don't have the full set, just a couple of cables and size 10, 13, and 15. First time I've used interchangeable circular needles.

And I felt my hand bump against a hard end, and looked down - and there I am, merrily part way through a round, and the CABLE HAS COME OFF THE END OF THE RIGHT NEEDLE. EEEEK. It was a few dozen stitches back. Managed to feed it back through and get it back onto the needle, with help. Found out the left needle was really loose, too, tightened that back up.

I guess I just need to train myself to check and tighten them every row or so?


Nov. 22nd, 2007 03:59 pm
celticdragonfly: (Default)
It started SNOWING outside!

Yes, yes, my northern friends will think nothing of this. But hey, this is Fort Worth, TX. Snow is uncommon here.

So of course we had to bundle up the baby and take her out into her first snow. And take pictures.


Also got the chance to take pics of my new sweater, which I'd just finished, and am now quite grateful to have done.
celticdragonfly: (Firefly - going mad)
Where is the ruler?

How can I measure this swatch if I can't find the RULER?


EDIT: Found it. Thank you, oh forces that be.

First gauge, 2x2 rib, 14 stitches per 4 inches, on size 11. Supposed to be 18 stitches per 4 inches. So, size 11 too large. Pattern calls for size 9 (9 and 13, gauge in 9), so tried 11 first. Now going to try 10.5.

Second swatch, size 10.5. 16 to 17 stitches per 4 inches, depending on how I read it. (pattern says "18 sts/24 rows = 4 inches over 2x2 Rib (slightly stretched) using smaller needle". Slightly stretched? Gah)

Okay, going to try again on size 10, fortunately I bought size 10 dpns for Alanna's stocking.
celticdragonfly: (Knitting patterns - Dumbledore)
Celtic Braids cardigan - first sleeve, have been doing decreases every 3rd row.

Got to 64 stitches. Put in a life line, now going to decreasing every 2nd row.
celticdragonfly: (Deadly Yarn)
Woooo! The handpainted yarn from Uruguay arrived this morning!

This is pretty stuff. The picture doesn't do it justice, really. It's a rich purple with red undertones and a vivid green. Really rather brighter than my usual palette - but this is a to be for a vivid sweater, one to ward off the gray of fall and winter. Hah. Honestly, when this is done, fling some gold jewelry on and I'd be ready for Mardi Gras.

It's going to be a Cherie Amour sweater for me. I was hesitant to make myself something with bulky yarn, but I noticed when checking the details and trying to find a locally available alternative, that this yarn, that the pattern was designed with, is thinner than most bulky yarns. I just wound the skeins into balls, and really it feels awfully close to worsted weight to me. So that should be good.

I need to swatch, I expect I'm going to need to go buy new needles. And I need to find a short-sleeved v-neck t-shirt or tank top to go under it - some color that will look good with it, dunno, maybe just a black, and a size that fits me sorta snug, a 2X or maybe even an XL. Not sure where best to find that, for my sweetie's entertainment I really do want it to be distinctively deeply v-necked.

Hey, [livejournal.com profile] bkseiver - thank you again for my swift. I LOVE my swift. I just used it and my ballwinder on all 7 skeins, wheeee. That went smoothly and quickly.
celticdragonfly: (Firefly -River - I'll knit)
A yarn package arrived! Wheee!

Not the calathea merino bulky. Not yet. THAT will occasion much excited dancing around the house and squeeing. But any yarn package is good. This one is three skeins of Swish superwash worsted from KnitPicks, intended for two different projects.

I am a hopeless ravelry geek - I am uploading the pics into my stash now.

I am NOT going to cast on just yet. No. I'm going back to working on ... oh, one of the other four projects I currently have going. Maybe I can finish one or two of them FAST so I can cast on.
celticdragonfly: (Firefly -River - I'll knit)
I am continuing to work on the Celtic Braids cardigan. It's a bit nerve-wracking - despite having done multiple baby sweaters and kid sweaters, this is the first one for me - my first set of adult sleeves.

I'm at the point on the sweater sleeve where I think I want to stop doing reductions every 3 rows and start doing them every 2 rows. The pattern had called for every 4 rows - clearly that would have given me sleeves for a gorilla.

Before I go ahead with that decision, I'm spending time working on finishing details. This is to make it easier to try things on and get a clearer idea of how the finished garment will look, and make the decisions easier.

Yeah, right, you didn't believe that either, did you? I'm procrastinating wildly to avoid deciding what to do on the sleeve and whether or not I should put in a second life-line. But hey, at least I'm still making actual progress on the sweater. This has to get done sooner or later, and this way there will be less to tidy up at the end.

I have all the extant ends woven in, and 4 of the 9 buttons sewn on. I will knit fearlessly, but when it comes to things like sewing on buttons, I'm back to feeling like a 7 year old trying to sew something for her teddy bear. I don't think my skills at that have much improved, either. But it ought to do.
celticdragonfly: (Knitting for dummies - Jayne)
I did a lot of math yesterday, consulted [livejournal.com profile] bkseiver on the phone for sanity checks, and figured out how to do the sweater sleeve. Not 3" past the join and reduce every 4th row, no. I needed 2.5" past the join and then reduce every 3rd row. Okay. Worked on it.

Did some more sleeve knitting this morning, realized I'd gotten to 3"
past the join, not 2.5. Tinked back a couple of rows. Measured.
2.5". Counted rows. 14.

When I laid down the sweater and measured yesterday, I was getting 6.5
to 7 rows per inch. But if I'm getting that 2.5" and 14 rows, that's
5.6 rows per inch, and it will be totally different.


maybe I just can't do sweaters with sleeves...
celticdragonfly: (Firefly -River - I'll knit)

Finished Object Dance!

Alanna's Christmas stocking is done, yay!
celticdragonfly: (Wimsey - string - perfectly simple if yo)
Dialogue between [livejournal.com profile] selenite and me about the knitting pattern I'm working on.

Me: The pattern says "These instructions are somewhat more difficult than the afterthought heel instructions but will achieve the look that is represented in the stocking photograph." Guess which one I'm doing? "Somewhat More Difficult" is my middle name. You didn't know that, did you? "Addah" is actually an obscure Welsh word for "Somewhat More Difficult".

[livejournal.com profile] selenite: I didn't know that.

Me: Well, you do now.

[livejournal.com profile] selenite: I do now. But I'm not surprised.
celticdragonfly: (Deadly Yarn)
Work on Alanna's Christmas stocking proceeds apace. It's going reasonably well. I am not great at colorwork. [livejournal.com profile] bkseiver could pick it up and critique it in detail. But ... I think I'm improving. I think I'm learning things from this that will let me continue to improve in future colorwork. So I ought to be brave and continue to do more colorwork after this.

Also? I seriously WANT one of those doohickeys that sit on your left forefinger to hold apart more than one strand of yarn at once. I Want It Now. I don't know if any local yarn stores carry it, and they're all closed today anyway. Bother.
celticdragonfly: (Firefly -River - I'll knit)
Today I cast on for Alanna's Christmas stocking. I am using the KnitPicks Swish Superwash wool, in Fired Brick, Squirrel Heather, and Jade. And I am using the size 10 needles. (well, 8 and 10, mostly 10)

I have been pretty intimidated about this, because eek, colorwork. I don't DO colorwork. I've sorta tried it twice - once way back in an SCA class to make an Islamic style knitted bag, which I never finished, and once with Maggie's Christmas stocking, which had a few two-color bits. They didn't come out so well.

Now, it's probably too early to tell. I'm only 17 rows into the thing, and the first 12 were solid red. But - so far, this is not as bad as I'd anticipated. Slower than solid color knitting, yes. But not as bad as I'd thought.

Well, I suppose I did become a better knitter in the last 5 years since I've done this.

There was an option to have the band I'm currently in be solid color, and then later duplicate stitch a name in. I was going to do it - but then I thought about it, and Maggie's and Jamie's knit stockings don't have their names on them. So I think I will leave it without. They're all distinctively different. And this way I can at least imagine that they'll pass them on down to their firstborns.
celticdragonfly: (Tophat)
Life's been a bit more chaotic than usual lately.

FenCon prep, what little of it there was. Coming down sick just before the con. Being sick afterwards, and dealing with sick kids. [livejournal.com profile] selenite's mom visiting, and having time with the grandkids. Etc. I'm hoping to have things settle down a BIT now, and get back to the rich online life I was having, interspersed with the busy local life. Which is getting busier - Wednesday nights at church are back up and going for the kids, Maggie has dance on Thursday, we've been entreated to start coming back to ORAC stuff, etc. And of course the sheer busy wonder that is baby Alanna.

Today I am tackling a goal I've had for some weeks. I've been checking LOTS of knitting books out from the library - many through Interlibrary Loan. (Which you can request ONLINE now, at least in my area. Bwahahaha. Dance, my puppets, DANCE!) I've been reading and sending some back, but have realized I ought to do better than that, and I want to write up little informal reviews of each of them. I will put them up here, but also in the Knitting Book Talk forum on Ravelry. Hopefully this will be a helpful resource for other knitters, and also useful for me to go back and read over and recall just WHERE that cool glove pattern was from, and such.

At some point after this is done, I'd like to get back to being online and actually getting to chat with people. That'd be nice... although everyone will have to be patient with me and my much-interrupted life. Nursing at the keyboard works better for reading than typing.

Ooooh! Mail just came. A BOX. For me. Sterzings I will have to find time later WITH NO KIDS. Mine mine MINE. They wouldn't properly appreciate them. Well. Maggie might. But it'd be a clear case of the Shrimp Principle[1], as discovered by my grandparents.

[1]They urged my dad [livejournal.com profile] rlseiver and my uncle to try shrimp. Got them to really like it. Then they realized - wait, now they needed to buy shrimp for 4, not 2. This caused budget problems.
celticdragonfly: (Wimsey - string - perfectly simple if yo)
I want to keep these two techniqe quotes from a knitting book, Domiknitrix, here so I can find it in the future. Read more... )
celticdragonfly: (Default)
Here's a couple pics with Jamie in them for a change:
Read more... )
celticdragonfly: (Knitting for dummies - Jayne)
Swish superwash swatched on size 10 dpns - 4.5 spi. Ought to be 4 spi.

DAMNIT, why do I keep having to go to bigger and bigger needles for everything? I swear I am NOT knitting tighter than I used to.

Okay, I went back and checked - using these same exact needles for the coarse rough yarn got 4 spi right on.

I don't know what to do. Assume the Swish just won't work, and I've wasted the money? Use the coarse rough stuff? That won't be pleasant knitting. Buy Wool of the Andes in bulky, and see if I can get it up to 4 spi, when it says it goes for 3-3.75? Try Swish on bigger needles? (I'm afraid that will make too loose a fabric) Say to hell with it, knit with Swish on the size 10 needles and accept a smaller stocking?

Some days I just feel like a knitting failure.
celticdragonfly: (Socks)
I'm doing it again.

I need knitting for FenCon. (Yes, I know, I'm going with a baby. Nonetheless. I *may* have time for knitting, and I'll be miserable if I don't bring it.)

Cardigan sweater, too big to lug around. Alanna's Christmas stocking, too complex to cast on at a con. So, I'm going to start another sock. Besides, I have new pretty Harmony sock needles.

Now, I have enough of the brown cotton socka that [livejournal.com profile] bkseiver gave me for another short pair. But... there's this pretty multicolor purple stuff I have, that I used some of for Alanna-socks. It's PRETTY. I want to knit with it.

I was going to use the Thuja sock pattern for the brown. Well, the basic stitch pattern, theirs is a heavier weight yarn. The stitch pattern is row 1: K3 P1, row 2, knit. So a seed stitch rib of sorts.

But, eh, a little dull, and on a K3P1 pattern, although it makes a nice sock, you can't easily balance it over the top of the foot.

The Schurch book has what they call garter rib - row 1: k2 p2, row 2: knit. On a k2p2 base, easy to center over the top of the foot. But I dislike the look of garter.

So I'll combine the stitch patterns. Row 1: k3, p1. Row 2: k2, p1, k1. So it'll be a K2, seed stitch 2 rib.

The only downside is that if I picked an established pattern, I could just find it in ravelry, click "cast on", and it goes into my project list. Otherwise I guess I gotta write it up.

Well, there ought to be more wide foot socks in Ravelry anyway, not everybody rewrites them as easily as I do.
celticdragonfly: (HHGG - knitting - improbable)
I just finished the buttonhole band / button band / neckband on the braids cardigan. (It's all done in one long piece) Being on Ravelry is encouraging me to document my knitting way better than I used to.

I still have to do the sleeves, weave in ends, and sew on the buttons. But man, I'm really beginning to believe that this is going to become a finished sweater that I can wear!

For the buttonhole row, I used the one-row buttonhole method I documented in an earlier post. I laid it out and decided to use 9 buttons. The front up to the corner (where it becomes the neck) was 90 stitches. So that part was:

K3, (4-stitch one row buttonhole, K6) 8 times, (4-stitch one row buttonhole) once, K3. The last knit stitch was actually an increase stitch at the corner, following the pattern, so it was a kfb - that's how I prefer to do my M1s.

Now to go pick up for the sleeves.
celticdragonfly: (Socks)
The corded rib quartercrew socks are done, pics up on Ravelry, and on my feet. Ta da! I haven't tried them on with the new MBT shoes yet, I shall do that later. I do have enough of the yarn for another pair of socks, albeit again fairly short-cuffed ones. I haven't thought of what stitch pattern I want to use yet.

The other socks I'm thinking about are the Lucy socks here:

I have a skein of the Lucy colorway of that yarn, so I do want to do pawprint socks with it. I'll be knitting them top down, and I need a 72-stitch cast on, not 68/64.

So, looking at the chart on that page, she's got the lace charted in a 17-stitch panel. I need an 18 stitch panel, so add one stitch, no problem. But also, I like to have some ribbing in my socks, to keep them snuggly.

So once it's 18-stitch panels, there will be 5 stitches between each pair of pawprints. The stitch immediately on each side of the lace should be a knit stitch, leaving 3.

My wonder is this - do I do better to just make that a p3, or would they fit better if I made it a P1K1P1? Suggestions from other knitters?

Either way, I'm going to end up starting each needle with a purl stitch, which annoys me, but so it goes.
celticdragonfly: (Wimsey - string - perfectly simple if yo)
I got this from knitting.about.com, but now it's not there any more, so I'm going to put it here so I can find it later.

Work the required number of stitches before starting the buttonhold.

As if to knit, slip one stitch. Between the tips of the needles, bring the yarn to the front of the work and drop it. As if to knit, slip the next stitch from the left-hand needle to the right-hand needle and pass the first slipped stitch over the second slipped stitch and off the needle. Not using the dropped yarn, bind off the required number of stitches in this manner.

Slip the last stitch on the right hand needle back to the left hand needle. Turn the work around. Bring yarn to the front. At the edge where the buttonhole was started, using the twisted method of casting on purlwise, cast on one more stitch than the number that you bound off.

Turn the work around. Slip the first stitch from the left hand needle to the right needle as if to knit. Slip the extra cast on stitch over the next stitch and then slip this stitch back onto the left-hand needle.


The twisted purl cast on method provides a firm edge. It is decorative on both sides of the work.

To begin, make a slip knot and place on left needle.

Insert the right needle into the back of the stitch (furthest from you) as if to purl.

Wrap the yarn around the right needle as if to purl and pull loop through. This twists the stitch.

Place the new stitch on the left needle.

Continue to purl through the back of the stitch on the left needle and place the new stitch on the left needle.
celticdragonfly: (Knitting patterns - Dumbledore)
Okay, partway through the button band and neckband. Need to figure out how many buttonholes and how big they are going to be.

There are 90 stitches along the front right part, before it becomes neckband. I have 10 buttons, not sure how many I want to use. An odd number of them.

Going to have to figure out how many stitches per buttonhole. Chatted with [livejournal.com profile] bkseiver - she says I just have to swatch it, although at least she could give me a starting point and talk about how it should be almost the size of the button.

So I went upstairs and found the box with the rest of the yarn, and am swatching.

Okay, having swatched I'm pretty happy with the 4-stitch version of the one-row buttonhole, version 4.

Damn, good thing I kept it in a printout - the webpage is gone.

So now do to the math. But I also want to try it on and figure out the gaposis spot.
celticdragonfly: (Socks)
Oh, this is COOL.

Ravelry has a listing for
patterns > designers > Laura Gallagher

and has the Fluted Banister socks I did for the Six Socks Knitalong there. Nice write up of it!

I really need to see if I can get that hat submitted to Knitty, once I can get a decent photo shoot done of it, and get it up on Ravelry too. Or maybe just take my own poor pics and give up and publish it myself.

Dear Flist - I know there are other fiber nuts out there - who else is on ravelry? I found [livejournal.com profile] castiron, who else can I find and friend?


Sep. 14th, 2007 04:26 pm
celticdragonfly: (Firefly -River - I'll knit)

Oh oh oh I am so EXCITED!

'Scuse me, I'm going to go disappear into this as much and as long as the kids will allow...
celticdragonfly: (Firefly -River - I'll knit)
Okay, I'm totally jealous - Franklin got HIS Ravelry invite!

Well, hopefully it won't be much longer.

Also, I love his alternate Debbie Bliss title - Fancy-Ass Knits for Spoiled Rotten Babies
celticdragonfly: (Knitting patterns - Dumbledore)
So I was postponing work on the sock until post-kid-bedtime video watching with [livejournal.com profile] selenite. The Ted pattern is awful. The Christmas stocking I'm debating buying different yarn for.

So I went and got out the bag with the Celtic Braids cardigan in it. It had been on hold for the button band, when the first set of buttons was too small and I sent them back and changed for the larger size. Then, well, I got pregnant, and that's not a great time to be trying to fit a button band on a cardigan. But hey, now I could work on it, just in time for this fall!

Got it out, looked it over, started looking at the pattern. Had a horrible moment - okay, I know I made the short version, not the long version with vents (because the kit was given to me, and the amount of yarn was enough for the short version). But which size was I working on, 4 or 5?

I started hunting through my old LJ entries. I finally found this one. Okay, says which size needles I used - which is good, since I was remembering wrong. Doesn't say what SIZE! Aha - I'm not sure the crochet cast on was ideal for what is basically a K3P1 base, it may roll a bit, but I was damned if I'd do long-tail cast on for 292 stitches. - the cast on number, that will tell me size.

See, this is why I need Ravelry. I'll just keep all my project details there, and I can find them when I need them. Going back through all the LJ entries tagged knitting can take a LONG time.

I checked again - there are 547 people ahead of me... getting close.

Bother it

Sep. 11th, 2007 03:10 pm
celticdragonfly: (Knitting for dummies - Jayne)
Okay, I set the sock aside so as to have mindless stockinette knitting available for evening stuff, so as not to have knitting then that would stop me from carrying on conversations with my darling [livejournal.com profile] selenite.

I was going to start the Christmas stocking for Alanna. But on reflection, I think maybe I want to buy more yarn. The kit I got has a lovely pattern, well written, a big beautiful color chart - very much the way a kit should be done. BUT - the yarn is rather coarse and rough, and has a fusty lanoliny smell to it. It's not like she's going to WEAR it. But... I do want to enjoy the process of knitting it. So I'm thinking of buying Shine Swish superwash yarn from Knitpicks in the appropriate colors. (Yes, I wrote Shine originally, I meant Swish, the 100% wool, my bad.)

And then I was going to think about doing the Ted baby hoody outfit pattern I got. It is SO cute. But the pattern is awful. So I wrote a letter of frustration to the designer )
My knitting day is SHOT. Bother.

On the good side, I thought my size 8 DPNs were lost, but I found them.
celticdragonfly: (Knitting patterns - Dumbledore)
Further swatching notes for Alanna's stocking. The size 10 DPNs, Lion Brand flexible plastic, arrived in the mail. Yay! Big pale blue. Practically drumsticks. Gauge is 16 stitches per 4 inches on the larger size needles, and I swatched it, and it's right on.

So yes, size 10 and 8 instead of 8 and 6.

But first I need to finish this second sock I've started today.
celticdragonfly: (Socks)
Socka cotton color yarn color 6343
needle size 2.5 (3 mm)

Cast on 72. 10 rows K2P2 rib.
Start corded rib pattern (Schurch 1, p. 38). 8 pattern repeats, end with a K2P2 row.
10 rows stockinette (ooh, how lucky for me I have this handy row counter...)
Knit first stitch from needle 1 onto needle 4. Slip first stitch from needle 3 onto end of needle 2.

Short row heel from Schurch 1, p. 75-76. (Forget this "P3TOG in back loop". Gah. Purl normally, wrap next stitch and turn, knit that first stitch TBL, continue down knit row.)

Stockinette foot. Standard toe down to 14 stitches per side, kitchener.

Started first sock 8/31, finished 9/4. Started second sock 9/4.

Row counter

Sep. 1st, 2007 01:39 pm
celticdragonfly: (Firefly -River - I'll knit)
There'd been a request in comments for a picture of the row counter [livejournal.com profile] bkseiver made for me. It's really something that shows better in motion than in a still picture, so here's a video.

Really. It just shows better that way. This has nothing to do with me having way too much fun with the video function in my camera. Honest.
celticdragonfly: (Knitting patterns - Dumbledore)
It's amazing how many entries I mentally compose, but then never get to put up because I have my hands full with the kids, especially the baby. But I want to get this one in.

I got a package Thursday. [livejournal.com profile] phoenixsinger sent a puppet for Maggie and Jamie. Maggie immediately wanted to call and thank her. She wasn't at home, she got her Uncle Patrick, but she'll try again later.

[livejournal.com profile] bkseiver sent me a book ([livejournal.com profile] selenite, I forgot to show it to you, remind me when you get home!), a cool knitting row marker she made - purple and blue pony beads on a purple cord, yeah, she knows me - and cotton sock yarn, in celebration of my new shoes. And hey, this yarn really looks good up against those shoes, too.

Since I can't work on Alanna's stocking until the needles get here, I was eager to start something new, so I've cast on a sock. I also have a nifty little knitting yarn jar - plastic thingy with a clear jar, and a lid with a hole in it, and a handle, so you can carry your yarn around and it doesn't get tangled or dirty or run away from you. I'm making the socks with a corded rib pattern, I haven't tried that before.

Knitting makes me feel much better. And the row counter thing is just COOL.
celticdragonfly: (Knitting for dummies - Jayne)
Swatching notes for Alanna's stocking. Gauge is 16 stitches per 4 inches on the larger size needles, and they suggest 6 and 8.

Swatched on size 9 needles, got 16 stitches over 3.75 inches.

Darn it, I don't HAVE size 10 needles. I do have one 10.5 circular, I will swatch with that.

Dear Universe, why can't you just deliver a set of size 10 DPNs to my door now? And chocolate caramel, while you're at it.

EDIT: Size 10.5 needles produced a swatch that was just over 4.25 inches wide.

So yeah, the typical "go up two sizes" sounds pretty likely. Now if I just had size 10s. I'd like to get Lion Brand ones, but I don't know anywhere local that carries them. I may have to mail order.
celticdragonfly: (Knitting patterns - Dumbledore)
I have finished the Fiona bag I'm making for Maggie.
pic of the side with the pocket )
In pink. Of course. I really start to wish I had more family members that got excited about my knitting, as I get SO sick of working in pink. Fortunately I have a Christmas project for Alanna planned next. NO PINK.

I did change the project a bit. The base is seed stitch instead of garter stitch. And I didn't like the look of the reverse stockinette sides, so it's regular stockinette, with a pair of purl stitches on each side of the cabling to make it stand out. And I did the attached i-cord at the top on live stitches rather than casting off first, seemed much less trouble.

Pic of the other side, and shows the drawstring )
And it does still need me to go out and shop for a button for the flap and attach that, but that can wait until later.

Now I have to debate if I give it to her now, or squirrel it away for a Christmas present. She does know I was working on it for her, but if it just disappears she'll probably forget.

So I'm going to eat an overdue lunch, and hope in a bit to start balling up the yarn for the next project and swatching it. I may have to buy more needles. We'll see.
celticdragonfly: (Firefly -River - I'll knit)
Crossposting to my own journal as well as the knitting community I'm in, since I know I have knitters on my flist.

I just received a kit for a Christmas stocking I'm going to do for Alanna, the Holly stocking from http://www.annieswoolens.com/. It's a nice kit, well put together, big clear color chart, and arrived quickly, with IMO a very reasonable price.

I'm going out on a limb a bit with it. I've knit two Christmas stockings before, and I do socks all the time. But I *don't* normally do colorwork.

When I learned to knit, I automatically wrapped the yarn around my left hand continental style, as I'd always done for crochet, while watching my mother knit English style using her right fingers to wrap the yarn around - so I have an odd combination style for knitting. I get great control and tension, but I'm using the forefingers on BOTH hands. Then I watched my mother doing the Philosopher's Wool style colorwork, and watched their video, and they're doing it with yarn wrapped around both forefingers, one color in each hand - and that's not going to work for me. So I pretty much have been sticking to textured work, cables, lace, and so forth. I've done very little colorwork.

So I'd like advice about techniques for colorwork, helpful hints and such. Also I tend to be a very tight knitter - I generally go up about two sizes to get gauge - and I'm worried about the whole thing with the - floats, they're called? - the yarn being carried along in back, I'm wondering how to keep that from being pulled too tight.

(I'm also looking at the kit and realizing they are writing this, I think, for non-sock-knitters, and doing it on a circular needle - and I'm thinking I'd probably be happier doing it on two-circs or on DPNs.)
celticdragonfly: (Knitting for dummies - Jayne)
I finished the Horcrux socks today, with the Regia cotton-wool blend sock yarn in the stripes of cream and browns. They're okay. This isn't going to be my favorite pattern ever, but it's not bad.

Now I'm back to working on the Tulip sweater for Alanna. I'm going with [livejournal.com profile] bkseiver's advice, and just doing the sleeve stripes as written, despite having added an extra bottom purple stripe in the body. Sleeves on baby sweaters are generally too long anyway.

I'm dithering a lot. Wondering if she'll EVER wear it, as fast as she's growing. It's possible I'll be looking to give it away to another baby this winter, we'll see.

Also, I think the attached i-cord edging around the border is too damn tight, and is distorting the front edge. Bother. I should have done the seed stitch part in the size needles called for, and then gone up to a larger size for the edging. Given that it's just an open front with a tie at the neck, I think it'll be okay. But I'm going to do the bigger needle thing for the wrist openings.


celticdragonfly: (Default)

May 2009

34 56789
10 111213141516


RSS Atom

Most Popular Tags

Style Credit

Expand Cut Tags

No cut tags